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Wide Angle Lens For Nikon D50

INTRODUCTION

This is how I exploit and set up a D50.

Want free dwell cellphone help, 24 hours a day, one year a yr? In the event you’re in the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has some of it’s personal operator’s tutorials here.

I begin off explaining things so simply my mother can perceive, and get on to deciphering every menu merchandise for superior customers at the bottom.

For more examples of why you’d want to change these settings and why, additionally see my Maui Photograph Expedition page.

BASICS:

CAMERA

Many of these changes require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the highest dial. The cute preset modes usually lock out some adjustments.

I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I never use the lovable little preset icon modes as a result of I want to set something particular myself.

ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the sunshine gets dim and my photos would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I improve the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I by no means bother with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 looks wonderful at ISO 1,600 for those who want it. I’d much reasonably have a barely grainy however sharp image than a less grainy however blurry one. Not like movie, the D50 seems to be great at high ISOs, so I use them anytime I would like them.

I would love to make use of ISO AUTO, but often do not as a result of it also remains energetic in Guide publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the handbook publicity mode. Utilizing menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for guide publicity mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.

White Stability (WB): I’d use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I choose warmer (oranger) images. I explain white stability on my White Stability page and explain extra about the way to adjust it on the D50 later.

QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is known as NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) image size.

I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO distinction! Critically, if you happen to saw these prints you would not be capable to kind them out either. I can see solely the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which is similar to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has 100% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: in case you want space, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The only way to inform is by trying on the file size.

I’ll use BASIC for parties and sports activities after I’m capturing many hundreds and a whole lot of photographs at once. In these circumstances I’m extra involved with time wasted for the files to transfer, copy and archive. Fundamental seems to be ninety nine% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.

I’ll use FINE on rare events the place I’m capturing just some pictures and expect to peer at them very closely. In these circumstances the extra measurement isn’t significant if I anticipate to be spending numerous time analyzing every image.

I keep away from FINE JPG as a result of NORM offers me the same outcomes, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I would run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they’re doing. That’s why they name it Regular and that’s why I normally use Normal JPG.

OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I want the vivid color I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to offer coloration as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Taking pictures Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Image > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > – - Achieved > OK. If you neglect to select “- – Completed” and hit OK it will not keep in mind these settings! Details are on the Shooting Menu page.

For pictures of individuals I both set the colors back to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.

FOCUS: AF.

METERING: Matrix.

LENS

Many lenses haven’t any switches or settings. In that case, do not worry.

More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which will be both “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.

On older lenses I depart it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is guide focus. Sometimes you even have to maneuver the change on the digicam, which is a pain.

If the switch says “M/A – A” then I exploit M/A. This offers autofocus, and if I seize the main target ring it instantly lets me make manual corrections. As quickly as I tap the shutter button once more I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, provides each sorts of focus with out ever having to move any switches . It is the best.

Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring where the lens is attached to the camera. Set this this ring to the biggest quantity, normally 22, if not 32 or 16. This quantity shall be in orange on autofocus lenses. There normally is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you will get an error message from the D50.

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